NFT: Kenmore 400 washing machine problem

[Mephistopheles Janx]

I'm having a problem with my washer and was hoping someone here might recognize the issue and advise me as to what part needs replacing.

[Rain Man]

Originally Posted by Hoover

My wife bought a speed queen or something and I was like WTF is that. Machine is kick ass. Apparently they build commercial washers and dryers.

Richard Petty drove a modified speed queen during his 1958 and 1959 victories in the Kenmore 400.

[BlackHelicopters]

Probably ball bearings.

[TimeForWasp]

washer or warsher?

[Bugeater]

Originally Posted by srvy

possible lid switch has gone bad. see youtube bad lid switch. also see bypass lid switch to check it.

Pretty sure bad lid switch just means it won't spin, think it should still wash.

Need to pop the front off it to see wtf is going on.

[srvy]

Originally Posted by Bugeater

Pretty sure bad lid switch just means it won't spin, think it should still wash.

Need to pop the front off it to see wtf is going on.

yep I think you are right.

[crayzkirk]

The newer washers won't do much of anything if the lid switch is bad. The old top loaders are pretty simple. Since it will fill and empty, your regulator is probably okay. Can you hear the motor running? The motor connects to the gearbox with a plastic coupler. The pump connects on the other end of the motor. I'm going to bet that the coupler has broken. Marbeck appliance has them locally. Wear gloves as there are some really sharp metal edges in there. The entire cabinet comes off rather easily.

I'm pretty sure Appliance Parts Pros has a video on it. I ordered a few extras because those machines are everywhere: Kenmore, Whirlpool, Matag, etc.

http://www.marbeck.com/maytag-285753...otor-coupling/

[FAX]

I had one of those Kenmore deals one time, Mr. MephistophelesJanx. Here's what you do.

Disconnect power to the unit.
Remove the water supply and the drain hose.
Remove the end caps from the control panel.
Remove the screws that secure the control panel.
Lift the control panel to gain access to the timer and selector switch.
Move the unit into your back lawn.
Purchase several bags of dry ice.
Fill the washer bin to the top with dry ice and approximately 5 kilograms of explosive material (dynamite will work).
Throw a road flare at the damn thing.
Know in your heart that you have done mankind a great service.

FAX

[Peter Gibbons]

For years I was under the false impression that these types of electromechanical devices operated on electricity. Even during the four years of school at Rolla to get my engineering degree this belief persisted.

However, as I became wiser in the ways of the world, I now know this is wrong.
These things actually run on little black smoke (similar to a micro smoke monster from Lost).

Case in point, I bet that when this washer was working well, your electrical supply to it was fine. I further assert that now that it is not working well, the electrical supply is still fine. Thus, these don’t run on electrical power.

Moreover, I contend that what has changed is a small bit of black smoke has left the appliance and now it won’t operate the same. These two things prove my point that “little black smoke” is what makes these things run.

So, you just need to order replacement black smoke and put it back into the appliance for it to resume normal operation.

This lesson was free. No need to thank me. I am just happy to share my hard gained wisdom from years of practical observation and experimentation.

[srvy]

Originally Posted by Peter Gibbons

For years I was under the false impression that these types of electromechanical devices operated on electricity. Even during the four years of school at Rolla to get my engineering degree this belief persisted.

However, as I became wiser in the ways of the world, I now know this is wrong.
These things actually run on little black smoke (similar to a micro smoke monster from Lost).

Case in point, I bet that when this washer was working well, your electrical supply to it was fine. I further assert that now that it is not working well, the electrical supply is still fine. Thus, these don’t run on electrical power.

Moreover, I contend that what has changed is a small bit of black smoke has left the appliance and now it won’t operate the same. These two things prove my point that “little black smoke” is what makes these things run.

So, you just need to order replacement black smoke and put it back into the appliance for it to resume normal operation.

This lesson was free. No need to thank me. I am just happy to share my hard gained wisdom from years of practical observation and experimentation.

You are trying a little to hard there Pete.

[ScareCrowe]

Originally Posted by Peter Gibbons

For years I was under the false impression that these types of electromechanical devices operated on electricity. Even during the four years of school at Rolla to get my engineering degree this belief persisted.

However, as I became wiser in the ways of the world, I now know this is wrong.
These things actually run on little black smoke (similar to a micro smoke monster from Lost).

Case in point, I bet that when this washer was working well, your electrical supply to it was fine. I further assert that now that it is not working well, the electrical supply is still fine. Thus, these don’t run on electrical power.

Moreover, I contend that what has changed is a small bit of black smoke has left the appliance and now it won’t operate the same. These two things prove my point that “little black smoke” is what makes these things run.

So, you just need to order replacement black smoke and put it back into the appliance for it to resume normal operation.

This lesson was free. No need to thank me. I am just happy to share my hard gained wisdom from years of practical observation and experimentation.

LOL I work in HVAC we call that "letting the smoke out".

[ScareCrowe]

Originally Posted by BlackHelicopters

Probably ball bearings.

[Mephistopheles Janx]

Originally Posted by crayzkirk

The newer washers won't do much of anything if the lid switch is bad. The old top loaders are pretty simple. Since it will fill and empty, your regulator is probably okay. Can you hear the motor running? The motor connects to the gearbox with a plastic coupler. The pump connects on the other end of the motor. I'm going to bet that the coupler has broken. Marbeck appliance has them locally. Wear gloves as there are some really sharp metal edges in there. The entire cabinet comes off rather easily.

I'm pretty sure Appliance Parts Pros has a video on it. I ordered a few extras because those machines are everywhere: Kenmore, Whirlpool, Matag, etc.

http://www.marbeck.com/maytag-285753...otor-coupling/

Thank you for the reply!

I went ahead and moved the clothes to the dryer and emptied out the basin.

Well, things have changed. Now it won't drain but it will go into the wash cycle. I got it to do this by manually moving the agitator around and continually spinning the dial on the timer and turning it back on until it did something. As for the sound it makes... it just makes a buzzing sound in between cycles.

Now it agitates and fills... but won't drain.

I don't think this is something I'm gonna be able to fix myself without purchasing a bunch of parts (timer, regulator, the coupler, the capacitor) and swapping them out until it works again.

I purchased the home about 6 months ago and have a home warranty. I believe I'm gonna just call them and have them come out and fix whatever is wrong with this stupid machine.

[ScareCrowe]

Originally Posted by MephistophelesJanx

Thank you for the reply!

I went ahead and moved the clothes to the dryer and emptied out the basin.

Well, things have changed. Now it won't drain but it will go into the wash cycle. I got it to do this by manually moving the agitator around and continually spinning the dial on the timer and turning it back on until it did something. As for the sound it makes... it just makes a buzzing sound in between cycles.

Now it agitates and fills... but won't drain.

I don't think this is something I'm gonna be able to fix myself without purchasing a bunch of parts (timer, regulator, the coupler, the capacitor) and swapping them out until it works again.

I purchased the home about 6 months ago and have a home warranty. I believe I'm gonna just call them and have them come out and fix whatever is wrong with this stupid machine.

Could be the capacitor, a lot of times when the capacitor goes out a motor will just hum. (could be the sound you're describing as buzzing) However if you give the motor a kick start (by manually moving the agitator) it will start & run. Not sure why it wouldn't drain, unless maybe the draining is tied to the spin cycle & because you didn't manually start the spin cycle it faulted out. Not sure I have very little experience with washers, if your furnace breaks I'll be much more helpful.

But if you can find the capacitor they're usually cheap & easy to fix might be worth a try before you let the home warranty vultures in.

[Mephistopheles Janx]

Ok... I decided to take the thing apart myself anyways.

The water pump doesn't have a sock or anything in it and it spins freely.

I took the motor off to look at the coupler and it seems to be just fine. It makes sense it would be as it agitates with no problems.

[Bugeater]

Originally Posted by MephistophelesJanx

Ok... I decided to take the thing apart myself anyways.

The water pump doesn't have a sock or anything in it and it spins freely.

I took the motor off to look at the coupler and it seems to be just fine. It makes sense it would be as it agitates with no problems.

See post #22