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06-25-2017, 08:43 PM | #991 | |
Politically Incorrect
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Quote:
One account and probably the best performing/lowest fee would be the best.
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06-25-2017, 08:56 PM | #992 | |
Woman should only make babies
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Its all good I just need to get a fire lit under my ass to get those accounts together.
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06-25-2017, 09:31 PM | #993 |
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Lew is right.
But my perspective is something is better than nothing. It's really easy to get bogged down in details and research. Sometimes paying someone to set it all up is cheap money if you wouldn't otherwise do it. My grandpa was a farmer. Grew up in the depression. So he did everything himself. Built his house. All his sheds. Airplanes. Rebuilt his tractors. If he couldn't do it himself it largely didn't happen. But he had 2 mutual funds. One he put $3,000 sometime in the 60s and $3,000 sometime in the 70s. Both had well over 150,000 in them when he died in 08 (right about the time the market puked all over everything). He didn't pay any attention to loads, fees, commission, whatever. He just made a little extra money and had his ground paid off and just stuck it somewhere. I'm sure it wasn't the most efficient and one vastly out yielded the other but the return over time on either one was huge. Just do something. |
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06-25-2017, 09:32 PM | #994 | |
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Quote:
You have the choice to roll these into your current 401k, but this is not advisable because you are limited to whatever funds that company offers, and they usually have higher expense ratios than if you have it elsewhere. A best case scenario would be that they do have a terrific choice of funds that match your objectives, but they are still more expensive annually. Additionally, when you retire and a required to take Required minimum distributions, having to withdraw from 3 separate places complicates the calculation. If you only have 1 merged account, they will tell you exactly what you need to withdraw, so you don't run the risk of having an insufficient RMD penalty. |
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06-25-2017, 09:40 PM | #995 | |
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Most people think you are paying someone to go out and get you above average returns. That's what a hedge fund is. Great example of this is a hypothetical where the market as a whole has a 10-15% dip, an advisor who has you in a good asset allocation minimizes your losses during this period to something like 5- 7%. Because you are in a moderately defensive allocation, during good years you may not return exactly what the market returns. It's a safe bet for the less risky of us. When you are nearing retirement and have more complex requirements, paying an advisor to minimize your risk is usually worthwhile. |
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06-26-2017, 06:51 AM | #996 |
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Financial gurus of the CP, I come to you with a question. I have a 401K with the company I have been with for the last 12+ years. What is the differences between 401K and IRA? They also offer a IRA and I can start contributing to that as well as with the 401k, should I be doing that?
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06-26-2017, 07:05 AM | #997 | |
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Now, you can essentially do the same thing with a IRA, but it is done after the fact on your tax return and it is limited at $5,000. 401k limits are $14,000. I'd keep it in the 401k unless you are hitting your limits. |
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06-26-2017, 07:31 AM | #998 | |
He's Mahomie!
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06-26-2017, 07:37 AM | #999 |
He's Mahomie!
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I will say I'm like lewdog in being obsessed with the financial investments. I try to teach my kids this stuff all the time. They already have their own stock accounts. My son just graduated from high school and is unsure of college, even with good scholarship offers for golf. Instead of being $100k in debt, we're taking his college savings and placing it in the stock market. Can you imagine the compound interest on $25k starting at age 18?
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06-26-2017, 08:08 AM | #1000 | |
In BB I trust
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06-26-2017, 08:09 AM | #1001 |
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06-26-2017, 09:21 AM | #1002 | |
Politically Incorrect
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Quote:
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06-26-2017, 12:30 PM | #1003 | |
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major differences between the IRA and the 401k will probably be fee structure and fund offerings. Occasionally, an employer will also match a portion of IRA contributions, like a 1 to 2 ratio up to a certain amount. As a rule of thumb, you should take advantage of however much your employer is willing to match. Another thing you may want to look into is a Roth 401k. While the portion of the 401k that your employer matches is required to be pretax by law, the portion that you contribute is eligible to be after tax. By paying taxes on your contribution now, rather than on the compounded sum at retirement, you may be able to save 10s of thousands in retirement. Talk to your tax advisor to see if this is a good strategy for you. |
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06-26-2017, 08:29 PM | #1004 |
Mod Team
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Part of article from money magazine about investing and compounding interest benefits.
To demonstrate the importance of time and saving early and often, I figured we'd look at how much you'd need to save on an annual basis to become a millionaire by the time you hit 65 years old, the upper-end of the traditional retirement age range. For our example I've made a few assumptions to keep the calculations as simple as possible. Using Bankrate's investment calculator I've assumed $0 initial investment, a 7% rate of return, a contribution frequency of once a year, and a compound frequency of once-yearly. We're also assuming that all taxes will be deferred, so keep in mind that tax implications aren't reflected in the eventual $1 million. With these criteria in mind, here's how much you'd have to save annually to reach $1 million by age 65. Age 20: $3,500 annually Age 25: $5,010 annually Age 30: $7,234 annually Age 35: $10,587 annually Age 40: $15,811 annually Age 45: $24,394 annually Age 50: $39,795 annually Age 55: $72,378 annually Age 60: $173,891 annually As you can see from the above, your investing leverage disappears quickly if you begin saving and investing for retirement five, or even 10, years after you initially planned. Unfortunately, the "I'll save later" attitude is commonplace in the United States. http://time.com/money/4417002/save-a..._medium=social
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06-26-2017, 10:42 PM | #1005 | |
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News flash for you 20 and 30 somethings. Social security won't be around when you retire. At least not in it's current form. Millenials are so concerned with the concept of sustainability when it comes to the environment. I wish they would apply the same logic to government spending in the form of entitlement programs. The math just doesn't work. There will be nothing left. Saving is conscious choice. It is a choice between having toys in the present vs living in poverty in retirement. And in the famous words of Geddy Lee of Rush, "If you choose not to decide, you still have made a choice." |
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